Floor Mounted Barrier for timber floors

The Absolute floor mounted barrier system is ideally suited to a more permanent display and has the added benefit of appearing more discreet than the Freestanding version whilst still indicating that visitors should not touch the exhibits. It’s neutral finish and simple clean lines sit comfortably within the museum and gallery environment, gently reminding the public of it’s presence without clashing with the display or decor. The clever bit is a stretchy cord, that fits snugly into the top of each post, drawing a neat line in the air, avoiding the distraction of that dreadful droopy rope, and because the elasticated cord makes a straight line, it blends with the architecture of the building helping the barriers to become less obvious and ensuring the artwork is the object of attention.

The timber floor mounted version of our barrier system has an upright that fits snugly into a stainless steel floor socket and supports the elasticated cord which defines restricted access, but gives to the touch thus avoiding tripping or injury. This socket has a small flange at the top that allows it to be screwed to the floor.

If required the uprights can be removed and the socket filled with a flush fitting plug that leaves a smooth trip free stainless circle of 60mm dia’.

DIMENSIONS and FINISH

The barriers are 400mm high with a socket of 60mm dia’ and available in two hardwearing versions:

Floor-mounted Barrier PPC Grey - Timber

£92.00
Floor-mounted Barrier SS - Timber

£118.00

Other finishes are available on request.

ACCESSORIES FOR THE TIMBER FLOOR MOUNTED BARRIER

You will of course require elasticated cord to go with your barrier layout.

Wall terminators are an excellent way to complete some barrier installations by returning the line of cord back to the wall.

You can now apply information signage directly to the top of our barriers by using one of our signage caps that will accept our range of aluminium labelholders.

If you require additional top caps then you can order them from here.

USEFUL TIPS AND GUIDELINES

It is important to select a barrier finish that will blends well with the environment and minimises visual impact, and to assist this process our standard cord colour is a neutral grey. However in areas where it is important to draw attention to the line we can supply cord in a range of colours that will enhance the contrast. These are white, red or black.

Because these barriers have a rigid fixing the tension on the cord can be greater and it is possible to increase the distance between barriers up to a maximum of approx’ 2.5mtrs.

Whenever possible barriers should be placed in a symmetrical fashion in front of an artwork as this maintains good overall harmony.

The stem of the socket is knurled to provide additional fixing if you wish to use an epoxy resin to reinforce the screw fixing.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

 

  1. Mark out the position of the sockets. Normal spacing is approx’ 2.5mtrs between posts, but this can be increased slightly so long as the tension on the cord is sufficient to maintain a straight and level line.
  2. Drill the holes in the floor surface using an appropriate timber bit to produce a clean hole approx’ 26mm dia’ and at least 68mm deep.
  3. Tighten each upright firmly into it’s socket.
    To get the best from this equipment we recommend installing the sockets with the uprights inserted whilst marking out to ensure that the cord slots at the top of the post are correctly aligned.
  4. Place the socket in the hole ensuring that the slots are inline and mark the screw positions. Then remove the upright and secure the socket with three countersunk 4mm screws. Stainless will give the best look but other finishes can be used.
  5. Screw the upright into the socket being sure to tighten in place by using the small hole on the insert just above the line of the socket.

Then for PPC barriers, follow these guidelines...

  1. Remove the top caps using your finger or a small screwdriver and tie a simple ‘granny’ knot in the end of the elasticated cord. Pull it very tight and cut off any excess cord close to the knot.
  2. Push the knot into the recess in the top of the upright with the cord exiting through one of the slots and replace the cap.
  3. Pull the cord tight to the next barrier with enough tension to make a straight line and push into the slots: straight across if it is a straight line or at right angles if it is at a corner.
  4. Repeat step 7 for the last barrier or use a wall terminator.

Note: In an installation where the object is completely surrounded, instead of two separate knots tie the two ends together with a reef knot, pull very tight and cut off the ends. If required cut off one of the cap legs to accommodate the size of this knot.

A line of barriers can also end with the cord attached to the wall with a wall terminator.

And for stainless steel, follow these...

  1. Unscrew the top cap until there is a gap large enough to insert the cord. Use a small Allen key or screwdriver in the hole on the side of the cap if additional purchase is needed.
  2. Insert the end of the cord into the space under the cap and wrap the cord around the stem once or twice and out through one of the slots. Hold the cord in place and screw the cap down.
  3. For intermediate barriers, pull the cord tight to the next barrier with enough tension to make a straight line and feed the cord in through one slot, around the cap stem and out through the appropriate slot. Straight through for a line of barriers and ninety degrees at a corner.
  4. Repeat step 7 for the last barrier or use a wall terminator.
  5. When the layout is complete, gently tighten all caps to prevent ‘little fingers’ from removing them.

Note: In an installation where the object is completely surrounded, repeat step 1 with both cord ends. In this instance it is only necessary to wrap once around the stem.

A line of barriers can also end with the cord attached to the wall with a wall terminator.