Screw Fixed Barrier

The Absolute Screw fixed barrier works well with both temporary and permanent installations, is quick to install and more discreet than the Freestanding barrier. As with the other barriers, it’s neutral finish and simple clean lines sit comfortably within the museum and gallery environment, gently reminding the public of it’s presence without clashing with the display or decor. The clever bit is a stretchy cord, that fits snugly into the top of each post, drawing a neat line in the air, avoiding the distraction of that dreadful droopy rope, and because the elasticated cord makes a straight line, it blends with the architecture of the building helping the barriers to become less obvious and ensuring the artwork is the object of attention.

Installation of the screw fixed version of our barrier system is very straight forward. Just screw the base plate to the floor. These fixings are then hidden by a simple cover plate that fits over the post that supports the elasticated cord. This defines restricted access, but gives to the touch thus avoiding tripping or injury.

As Seen On The BBC

As seen protecting the most expensive painting ever sold at auction - click here to view.

DIMENSIONS and FINISH

The barriers are 400mm high with a 100mm diameter base and available in two hardwearing versions:

Screwfixed Barrier (400mm) - PPC Grey

£65.00
Screwfixed Barrier (400mm) - SS

£102.00

Other finishes are available on request.

ACCESSORIES FOR THE TIMBER FLOOR MOUNTED BARRIER

You will of course require elasticated cord to go with your barrier layout.

Wall terminators are an excellent way to complete some barrier installations by returning the line of cord back to the wall.

You can now apply information signage directly to the top of our barriers by using one of our signage caps that will accept our range of aluminium labelholders.

If you require additional top caps then you can order them from here.

Our barriers are supplied complete with an Allen key and that is the only tool you will require to assemble them but if you need more keys, just ask.

USEFUL TIPS AND GUIDELINES

It is important to select a barrier finish that will blends well with the environment and minimises visual impact, and to assist this process our standard cord colour is a neutral grey. However in areas where it is important to draw attention to the line we can supply cord in a range of colours that will enhance the contrast. These are white, red or black.

Because these barriers have a rigid fixing the tension on the cord can be greater and it is possible to increase the distance between barriers up to a maximum of approx’ 2.5mtrs.

Whenever possible barriers should be placed in a symmetrical fashion in front of an artwork as this maintains good overall harmony.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Barriers are supplied in packs of two complete with an Allen key for assembly.

  1. Screw the thick baseplate (5mm) to the end of the upright with the countersunk bolt placed through the central hole, and tighten securely with the Allen key. The countersink for the three screwholes will be on the top surface of the baseplate.
  2. Mark out the position of the barriers being careful to ensure that the cord slots on top are inline, and screw into place using a 4mm dia’ screw or similar. Normal spacing between barriers is up to 2.5mtrs but this can be increased to 3mtrs on occasion, so long as the tension on the cord is sufficient to maintain a straight and level line.
  3. Place the supplied coverplate over the top of the barrier and slide down to the base so that it hides all of the fixings.

Then for PPC barriers, follow these guidelines...

  1. Remove the top caps using your finger or a small screwdriver and tie a simple ‘granny’ knot in the end of the elasticated cord. Pull it very tight and cut off any excess cord close to the knot.
  2. Push the knot into the recess in the top of the upright with the cord exiting through one of the slots and replace the cap.
  3. Pull the cord tight to the next barrier with enough tension to make a straight line and push into the slots: straight across if it is a straight line or at right angles if it is at a corner.
  4. Repeat step 5 for the last barrier or use a wall terminator.

Note: In an installation where the object is completely surrounded, instead of two separate knots tie the two ends together with a reef knot, pull very tight and cut off the ends. If required cut off one of the cap legs to accommodate the size of this knot.

A line of barriers can also end with the cord attached to the wall with a wall terminator.

And for stainless steel, follow these...

  1. Unscrew the top cap until there is a gap large enough to insert the cord. Use a small Allen key or screwdriver in the hole on the side of the cap if additional purchase is needed.
  2. Insert the end of the cord into the space under the cap and wrap the cord around the stem once or twice and out through one of the slots. Hold the cord in place and screw the cap down.
  3. For intermediate barriers, pull the cord tight to the next barrier with enough tension to make a straight line and feed the cord in through one slot, around the cap stem and out through the appropriate slot. Straight through for a line of barriers and ninety degrees at a corner.
  4. Repeat step 5 for the last barrier or use a wall terminator.
  5. When the layout is complete, gently tighten all caps to prevent ‘little fingers’ from removing them.

Note: In an installation where the object is completely surrounded, repeat step 1 with both cord ends. In this instance it is only necessary to wrap once around the stem.

A line of barriers can also end with the cord attached to the wall with a wall terminator.